The Concept Of Fashion
lunedì 23 gennaio 2012
domenica 8 gennaio 2012
venerdì 30 dicembre 2011
martedì 20 dicembre 2011
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Complete Runway Retrospective (1994 - 2010)
the hologram is set to the exquisite theme from Schindler's List.Savage Beauty2006
go see the incredible exhibit Savage Beauty at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City
FashionShow Spring/Summer1999
These two videos are by far my favorite shows alexander.chissà if one day someone will be able to surpass or even equal it.
Instantly headlines around the globe explained that one of Britain's most successful fashion designers was found dead at his Mayfair home in London. The devastating news came just weeks after the death of his mother Joyce and three years after the suicide of his friend and infamous style icon Isabella Blow, who had helped launch his career. Weeks later a report from a London coroner explained that the 40-year-old-designer had taken sedative drugs and cocaine before he died of asphyxiation and hanging.
Complete Runway Retrospective (1994 - 2010)
Spring/Summer 1994 - Nihilism
Isabella Blow discovered (Lee) Alexander McQueen during the showing of his graduation collection at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. The eccentric fashionista bought the entire collection for £5,000 and began to help the young designer make a name for himself in the London fashion scene. Finally, McQueen's spring 1994 collection hit the stage in the fall of 1993 and featured models strutting down the runway splattered in blood and dirt. The designer received endless press for his 'bumster' pants that revealed more than a little bottom cleavage.
Fall/Winter 1994 - Banshee
McQueen's 1994 fall/winter collection was inspired by "Irish folklore
about banshees heard wailing when a boat sank". Moulded plaster
breastplates and eerie gothic pieces came down the runway. Most
controversial? An Elizabethan piece which was modelled by a pregnant
skinhead.
Spring/Summer 1995 - The Birds
Inspired by Alfred Hitchcock's classic flick The Birds, McQueen's
1995 spring/summer collection featured numerous pieces that were
covered with bird silhouettes or feathers. The designer once again
shocked when models came down the runway bound in scotch tape... they
also had their tops open to reveal tire marks across their chests.
Fall/Winter 1995 - Highland Rape
McQueen's infamous "Highland Rape" collection was based on the
exploitation of Scotland at the hands of the British empire. Dresses in
traditional tartans and lace were torn to expose model's breasts and
editors were furious. The press perceived the fall/winter collection to
be a misogynistic treatment of women. Later McQueen fired back saying:
"People were so unintelligent they thought this was about women being
raped – yet 'highland rape' was about England's rape of Scotland".
Spring/Summer 1996 - The Hunger
McQueen's 1996 spring/summer collection was inspired by vampires. The
pieces that came down the runway were trademark early McQueen... they
were dark, decadent and heavily sexual. Nothing was "pretty"... in fact
some pieces featured prints that looked like bulging veins and a plastic
bustier had live worms trapped beneath.
Fall/Winter 1996-1997 - Dante
McQueen's theatrical "Dante" collection was staged at a church in
Spitalfields in 1996. The show opened with organ music filling the
church that was soon drowned out by gunfire. Models walked the runway
looking wearing wore crucifix masks, denim splashed with bleach and lots
of lace. McQueen commented that the collection was "not so much about
death, but the awareness that it's there".
Spring/Summer 1997 - La Poupee
McQueen's "La Poupee" runway presentation featured models walking
through a 100ft water catwalk. According to the designer the collection
was "based on the work of a photographer called Hans Bellmer who
dissected dummies and reconstructed them... it was the idea of the body
reconstructed like a doll-like puppet". The image of black model Debra
Shaw shackled to a large piece of jewellery remains one of McQueen's
most controversial to this day. Fall/Winter 1997-1998 - It's A Jungle Out There
McQueen's next collection was shown in Borough Market in 1997. The
backdrop was a screen of corrugated iron, which was covered in bullet
holes. Models with horns and painted faces walked around car wrecks
wearing cowboy boots and traditionally tailored pieces made out of hides
and leathers.
Spring/Summer 1998 - Untitled (Originally Titled The Golden Shower)
McQueen's 1998 spring collection was originally name "The Golden
Shower"... that quickly changed after the sponsor, American Express,
felt it was far too risqué. The show took place in a bus depot in
Victoria and it made headlines when halfway through the production rain
poured from the ceiling. White clothes were instantly see-through. A
controversial ribcage corset worn by model Shaun Leane, was cast from a
human skeleton and definitely one of the designer's most memorable
pieces. Fall/Winter 1998-1999 - Joan
McQueen's next collection was inspired by the brutal murders of the
Romanov dynasty. Models walked the runway wearing chain mail ensembles
and red leather suits. Sequinned dresses with prints of the Romanov
children even made an appearance. The dark production ended with a model
trapped inside a satanic ring of fire around the runway. Spring/Summer 1999 - No. 13
McQueen's 1999 spring/summer collection opened with physically
handicapped athlete Aimee Mullins walking the runway wearing prosthetic
legs, a rigid leather bodice and a delicate lace skirt all designed by
McQueen. The show ended with Shalom Harlow strutting the runway wearing a
white trapeze dress that was suddenly spray painted by two robots live
on the runway.
Fall/Winter 1999-2000 - The Overlook
McQueen's "The Overlook" fall/winter collection was based on Stanley Kubrick's 1980 film The Shinning
and featured models ice-skating wearing elaborate pieces. The
artificial snow landscape was the perfect backdrop to show off luxurious
furs, soft knits, shiny bustiers, trapeze and swing skirts and floor
length coats.
Spring/Summer 2000 - Untitled
McQueen's 2000 spring/summer show marked his first showing in New York
and it was met with mixed reviews. Fashion's "enfant terrible" turned
the runway into a terrifying bed of metal spikes and nails and models
were lifted into the air showing off sheer knits, body hugging jerseys
and a re-working of the burka.
Fall/Winter 2000-2001 - Eshu
McQueen's fall/winter "Eshu" collection was shown in an industrial
warehouse in Paris and inspired by the Yoruba people of West Africa. The
collection was elaborate and tribal details were mixed with luxurious
fabrics for an incredibly dramatic collection.
Spring/Summer 2001 - Voss
For the 2001 spring/summer "Voss" collection McQueen seated the audience
around a giant mirrored cube. The show was late (on purpose) and the
audience was forced to stare at themselves until finally the cube lit up
revealing a mental-hospital setting. The set was disturbing but the
frocks were theatrical. Kate Moss and Erin O'Connor were trpped inside
the cube as was a naked Michelle Olley who reclining on a couch
breathing through a tube. The elaborate show that cost £70,000 to
produce and set actually took seven days to construct.
Fall/Winter 2001-2002 - What A Merry Go Round
McQueen's next collection was essentially a nightmare circus set on a
roundabout carousel. The fall/winter collection featured sinister model
clowns who wore striking flapper dresses that were trimmed with
feathers, cocktail suits and elaborate evening gowns.
Spring/Summer 2002 - The Dance Of The Twisted Bull
McQueen's 2002 spring/summer show was filled with Spanish-inspired
pieces including flamboyant flamenco dresses and sexy Matador suits. The
designer flirted with controversy once again sending impaled models
down the runway shocking the audience.
Fall/Winter 2002-2003 - Supercalifragilistic
The "Supercalifragilistic" collection was presented in the eerie
medieval hall of the Conciergerie, the spot where Marie Antoinette is
thought to have died. McQueen later described the creepy collection
saying: "It was kind of Tim Burton, about little girls, a macabre Walt
Disney kind of thing. And I had Little Lilac Riding Hood, with the
wolves, but the wolves were her pets!" Spring/Summer 2003 - Irere
2003 was the beginning of a whole new era for McQueen. After joining
Gucci Group and losing 30 pounds the designer showed off his very pretty
spring/summer "Irere" collection. The runway show featured a
traditionally creepy backdrop projection of a girl underwater and a
terrifying woods but the runway was filled with romantic creations that
simply dazzled. A memorable rainbow-colored gown with tulle ruffles
closed the show.
Fall/Winter 2003-2004 - Scanners
McQueen's "Scanners" collection was presented in an elaborate
presentation... runway models dramatically walked along a huge
industrial wind tunnel. McQueen claimed that he the show to be like a
"nomadic journey across the tundra". Mission accomplished.
Spring Summer 2004 - Deliverance
For his 2004 spring/summer presentation McQueen had models dancing and
running around the stage wearing simple, more sophisticated pieces.
Michael Clark choreographed the presentation based on the dance marathon
in Sydney Pollack's film They Shoot Horses Don't They.
Fall/Winter 2004-2005 - Pantheon as Lecum
This season McQueen announced that he wanted to forget the theatrics and
"focus purely on design". Still... there was drama on the stage. Models
walked from a spaceship onto a huge glowing landing pad wearing
gorgeous pale frocks. An elaborate feathered gown with illuminated
neckpiece closed the show.
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2005 - Untitled
Alexander McQueen launched its first menswear collection in
spring/summer 2005. He sent an eclectic selection down the runway
including: army uniforms, parachute jumpsuits, traditional Eastern
tie-dyed garments and mirrored body stockings. The designer explained:
"It is a political statement as well as a sartorial one - a mixture of
two cultures that are separate but, here, can be mixed harmoniously".
Spring/Summer 2005 - It's Only A Game
For his 2005 spring/summer collection Alexander McQueen transformed the
runway into a giant chessboard. 36 models took their places and then
fought against each other like an actual game of chess. Some of the
styles from the collection were inspired by the film Picnic at Hanging Rock.
Men's: Fall/Winter 2005-2006 - Untitled
McQueen's 2005-2006 fall/winter men's collection was inspired by gang
culture from the sixteenth century to the 1990s and as portrayed
specifically in two films: Mathieu Kassovitz’s La Haine and Patrice Chereau’s La Reine Margot.
Fall/Winter 2005-2006 - The Man Who Knew Too Much
Inspired by multiple Hitchcock films Alexander McQueen's fall/winter
"The Man Who Knew Too Much" collection featured sexy pieces that were
cut to a feminine 1940s silhouette. The collection was one of the
designer's most tame.
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2006 – Killa
McQueen's 2006 spring/summer men's collection was inspired by the 1963 Peter Brook film Lord of the Flies adapted from the original novel by William Golding.
Spring/Summer 2006 - Neptune
McQueen's 2006 runway presentation was arguably his most traditional
runway presentation. There were no theatrics... only models walking the
runway wearing striking Grecian styles.
Men's: Fall/Winter 2006-2007 - Untitled
McQueen presented his next men's collection in a candlelit tunnel in a
disused warehouse space... he wanted the audience to see his "vision
from hell". Vampires, Oliver Twist and Dracula were just a few of the
inspirations for the fall/winter collection. Fall/Winter 2006-2007 - Widows Of Culloden
According to McQueen the "Widows Of Culloden" presentation was tribute
to the women who lost their husbands in the bloody battle of Culloden.
Scotland may have provided some of the inspiration for the collection
but it will always be remembered for the haunting holographic video starring Kate Moss that was shown.
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2007 – Harlem
McQueen's 2007 "Harlem" men's collection was filled with pieces that
were exquisitely tailored. The garments were a reminder of the time he
spent training in bespoke tailoring on London's famous Savile Row
Spring/Summer 2007 - Sarabande
McQueen's 2007 spring/summer show was inspired by the 1975 film Barry Lyndon and iconic eccentric Marchesa Casati.
The most memorable piece to come down the runway at the Cirque D’Hiver
in Paris? The elaborate dress worn by model Tanya Dziahileva that was
created with real flowers. McQueen later said: "Things rot. It was all
about decay. I used flowers because they die".
Men’s: Fall/Winter 2007-2008 – The Forgotten
McQueen's "The Forgotten" men's collection was all about old fashion
elegance. Models walked the runway showing off the strong silhouettes
inspired by the 1920s and 1930s.
Fall/Winter 2007-2008 - In Memory Of Elizabeth How, Salem 1962
McQueen's fall 2007 collection of Grecian dresses and warrior-like
moulded bustiers came to life after the designer's mother (Joyce) traced
the McQueen family tree back to one of the victims of the Salem witch
hunts in 1692. Men’s: Spring/Summer 2008 – Please Sur
McQueen’s 2008 spring/summer men’s collection was a 80s beach fest
complete with sun burnt surfer models. The inspiration was a 1961 LeRoy
Grannis image of a boy surfing in a black suit and white shirt.
Spring/Summer 2008 - La Dame Bleue
McQueen's 2008 spring/summer collection was in remembrance of his dear
friend and muse Isabella Blow [1958 – 2007]. The "La Dame Bleue"
collection was based around Isabella's personal wardrobe... much of
which was obviously by McQueen. Model's walked the runway wearing fitted
cocktail dresses and divine silk chiffon and organza gowns while lights
shone from the large, metal angels' wings structure behind the runway.
Men’s: Fall/Winter 2008 – Pilgrim
A trip to Nepal, India and Bhutan inspired McQueen’s quietly beautiful
collection men’s “Pilgrim” collection. Fine tailoring and elaborate
embroideries represented the modern nomad.
Fall/Winter 2008-2009 - The Girl Who Lived In The Tree
Alexander McQueen explained that his 2008 fall collection was inspired
by the Indian Empire and a story that he simply made up. "I’ve got a
600-year-old elm tree in my garden and I made up this story of a girl
who lives in it and comes out of the darkness to meet a prince and
become a queen".
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2009 – Love You
McQueen went for a little androgyny with his men's 2099 spring/summer
collection. The collection, especially the men’s one-piece swimsuit,
wasn’t particularly well received.
Spring/Summer 2009 - Natural Dis-tinction, Un-natural Selection
McQueen's "Natural Dis-tinction, Un-natural Selection" collection was
inspired by the global issues of climate change and industrialisation.
The garments that came down the runway featured politically inspired
prints that made a heavy statement. McQueen lightened the mood when he
walked the runway at the end of the show wearing a giant bunny costume.
Men’s: Fall/Winter 2009-2010 – The McQueensbury Rules
The title “The McQueensbury Rules” was a combination of the designer’s
own name and the nineteenth century boxer famed for a sense of fair play
and his establishing of the Queensbury rules. The collection was dark
and masculine with traditional tailoring, top hats and canes.
Fall/Winter 2009-2010 - The Horn Of Plenty
Alexander McQueen presented his extravagant "Horn of Plenty" collection
in Paris in March 2009. Models walked the scrap yard runway which was
created with props from past shows to Marilyn Manson's song "Beautiful
People" looking anything but beautiful. Bold stripes, prints and colours
dominated as did clown-like make-up. The runway show was a celebration
of the best moments of his career. Spring/Summer 2010 - Plato's Atlantis
According to McQueen the "Plato's Atlantis" collection was an
apocalyptic forecast of the future ecological meltdown of the world. It
was genius. Arguably his most creative collection... models stomped down
the runway wearing digitally printed reptile-patterned dresses and
over-the-top shoes. A video (by Nick Knight) of Raquel Zimmermann lying
naked in the sand with snakes writhing across her played in the
background while 2 robotic arms with video cameras flew up and down the
runway. News of the premiere of Lady Gaga's new single crashed the
show's web broadcast but the singer gave McQueen incredible coverage by
wearing much of the collection in her music video that debuted shortly after.
Men’s: Fall/Winter 2010-2011 – An Bailitheoir Cnamh
The last collection that McQueen presented while he was alive was his
fall/winter 2010-2011 menswear collection which was presented in Milan
in January 2010. The collection, titled "An Bailitheoir Cnamh," (Gaelic
for "The Bone Collector,") was inspired by whalers and seafarers.
Incredible tailoring and complex prints... it was one of his strongest
men’s collection.
Fall/Winter 2010-2011 - Untitled
After McQueen's suicide the fashion house put the finishing touches on
his final showpieces and presented with a private showing in a salon at
the headquarters of luxury titan Francois Pinault. The soundtrack for
the show consisted of haunting operatic and classical music that McQueen
had been listening to as he created and fitted the 2010 fall/winter
collection. The presentation was solemn and the elaborate creations were
a combination of old-world romanticism and modern technology... many of
the garments had digitally captured works of art which had been weaved
right into the fabrics. The show notes for the collection read: "Each
piece is unique, as was he."
Instantly headlines around the globe explained that one of Britain's most successful fashion designers was found dead at his Mayfair home in London. The devastating news came just weeks after the death of his mother Joyce and three years after the suicide of his friend and infamous style icon Isabella Blow, who had helped launch his career. Weeks later a report from a London coroner explained that the 40-year-old-designer had taken sedative drugs and cocaine before he died of asphyxiation and hanging.
Complete Runway Retrospective (1994 - 2010)
Spring/Summer 1994 - Nihilism
Isabella Blow discovered (Lee) Alexander McQueen during the showing of his graduation collection at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. The eccentric fashionista bought the entire collection for £5,000 and began to help the young designer make a name for himself in the London fashion scene. Finally, McQueen's spring 1994 collection hit the stage in the fall of 1993 and featured models strutting down the runway splattered in blood and dirt. The designer received endless press for his 'bumster' pants that revealed more than a little bottom cleavage.
Fall/Winter 1994 - Banshee
Spring/Summer 1995 - The Birds
Fall/Winter 1995 - Highland Rape
Spring/Summer 1996 - The Hunger
Fall/Winter 1996-1997 - Dante
Spring/Summer 1997 - La Poupee
Spring/Summer 1998 - Untitled (Originally Titled The Golden Shower)
Fall/Winter 1999-2000 - The Overlook
Spring/Summer 2000 - Untitled
Fall/Winter 2000-2001 - Eshu
Spring/Summer 2001 - Voss
Fall/Winter 2001-2002 - What A Merry Go Round
Spring/Summer 2002 - The Dance Of The Twisted Bull
Fall/Winter 2002-2003 - Supercalifragilistic
Fall/Winter 2003-2004 - Scanners
Spring Summer 2004 - Deliverance
Fall/Winter 2004-2005 - Pantheon as Lecum
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2005 - Untitled
Spring/Summer 2005 - It's Only A Game
Men's: Fall/Winter 2005-2006 - Untitled
Fall/Winter 2005-2006 - The Man Who Knew Too Much
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2006 – Killa
Spring/Summer 2006 - Neptune
Men's: Fall/Winter 2006-2007 - Untitled
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2007 – Harlem
Spring/Summer 2007 - Sarabande
Fall/Winter 2007-2008 - In Memory Of Elizabeth How, Salem 1962
Spring/Summer 2008 - La Dame Bleue
Men’s: Fall/Winter 2008 – Pilgrim
Fall/Winter 2008-2009 - The Girl Who Lived In The Tree
Men’s: Spring/Summer 2009 – Love You
Spring/Summer 2009 - Natural Dis-tinction, Un-natural Selection
Men’s: Fall/Winter 2009-2010 – The McQueensbury Rules
Fall/Winter 2009-2010 - The Horn Of Plenty
Men’s: Fall/Winter 2010-2011 – An Bailitheoir Cnamh
Fall/Winter 2010-2011 - Untitled
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